Wedding dress 1984

There is something almost architectural about the way this dress is built, and you feel it the moment you see the bodice up close.

It is a ball gown silhouette with serious presence. The sweetheart neckline is edged with delicate lace appliqué that extends upward in irregular, petal-like points, giving the bust line an organic rather than stiff finish. Thin spaghetti straps sit at the very edges of the shoulders, adding a light, almost effortless feel to what is otherwise a very structured gown. The bodice itself is a sheer lace corset, densely embroidered with scrolling baroque-style appliqués and scattered pearl or seed-bead detailing, fastened down the center front with a long row of covered buttons.

From the hip, the skirt breaks into a full, smooth satin volume. The contrast is the whole point: heavily worked lace on top, then this clean, sweeping satin below. A central lace panel continues down the front of the skirt, keeping the two halves of the dress in conversation. The back is equally striking, with the satin train fanning out wide and a matching lace panel running down the center back.

This one suits a grand venue. A ballroom, a cathedral, anywhere that gives the skirt room to move.